Surfing

Extreme Surfing

The other night the crew and I were treated to a night of surf movies, courtesy of the new owners of the Shepherd's Neck Inn. The big hit of the night was All Abroad the Crazy Train, a documentary about big wave surfing on the north shore of Hawaii. It showed how legends like Laird Hamilton and that crew developed the whole technique of tow-ins with jet skies to harness the power of those huge, previously thought unrideable waves. While I was watching it, it got me thinking about the coming fall, and the possibility of bigger than normal surf here in Montauk.

With the coming of fall, and the start of the storm season, we're due for some more challenging conditions. Sometimes all it takes is a weak tropical storm to stir the pot, and as we all remember from last year's killer hurricanes, old man Atlantis can throw us a real party when he feels in the mood. Before that happens, I think it's good to go over some of the basics of big wave surfing to prepare for what could be.

First and foremost, it's a good idea to decide what your capabilities are as a surfer. Big surf is serious surf and not for everyone. If you're a beginner, my advice is to stay on the beach. Watch and learn what you can. You'll be safer, and just as importantly you will not endanger other surfers by getting in their way or making someone come get you when you're in trouble.

If you think you're ready, know that you'll have to paddle harder, stay under longer and take more punishment in heavy surf. You must be in good shape, and be a strong swimmer to risk being pounded to the bottom even once, or caught in storm rips and currents. I can remember the first time that happened to me. Its like a hand is on both shoulders holding you down, your breath compressing in your chest, the surface seems a mile away and you wonder if you'll ever see sunlight again. It's no time for beginners I can tell you that, so please be honest with yourself, your skill level and motivation. This is supposed to be fun after all, not mortal combat in the water.

The next thing to do is make a through check of your equipment. That starts with your board, and in this case it should be a long board. Surfing big waves means harnessing the tremendous speed they produce with enough stability to maintain balance, and that is simply not possible on a short board. I recommend a 7 - 8 footer, with a gunnier shape. That is a long board with a more pointed nose, harder rails for speed, and less surface area. A good example is an Al Merrick MBG. It comes in 8 - 10 foot lengths, and is perfect for heavy surf.

Next, make sure you've got a good leash and the longer the better. If something goes wrong out there you do not want to lose contact with your board. If it's blown back to the beach you're in for a long exhausting swim, if you're driven under it's your life-line to you board, whose buoyancy will help you find the surface. And the longer the length, the less chance you've find the board in your teeth at the bottom of a spill.

Last but far from least, do your homework. Even if you think you know the spots, storms that produce big surf will re-configure them in subtle ways, even a truly experienced local surfer will take time to recognize. So, if you hear that it's happening, be sure to check in at the shop for a quick up-date. Me, Bill or the rest of the crew will be more than happy to steer you in the right direction, check your equipment or set you up with anything you may need. Remember, big surf only comes once in a blue moon, so take every precaution to make it a safe and truly memorable surfing experience.

When not taming the wildest of surf you'll find Stu Foley and the crew at Air and Speed on Main Street (668-0356) or at the head of the line-up.