Surfing

Stand-Up Surfing

If you've noticed anything odd lately in local waters don't worry, it is not your eyes. What you're been seeing is a wrinkle in surfing that's been around since the dawn of the great Hawaiians, but only sporadically seen in local waters. It is paddle board riding, and as I and a few other locals can tell you, it is a variation on traditional surfing that is a blast and a half!

This combination of surfing and stand-up paddling begins with an oversized long board, like the one above, anywhere from 10-12'. You can use an off the shelf model, just be sure it is as wide as you can find. I started with a Soft Top 24' wide, just enough to give you the extra stability you need to spread your feet enough to balance and turn. Now that I've got a real taste for it I'm ordering a custom built model that'll give me a full 32'.

Although few shapers are on this kick right now, you can find two that are cranking out custom's in increasing numbers. Arrow Surf of Santa Cruz and Infinity Surfboards of Dana Point both feature a good selection of choices up to and including some mind bending models that go to 20'! I've got the catalogues if you need, or go to their web sites for more information.

Now that you've got something solid under your feet you'll need a paddle to propel you. Basically they come in two varieties - wood and graphite. Needless to say you'll pay a good deal more for the high tech variety, but when the white water starts raining down, and you've got to make a hard turn with nothing but that blade in your hand, I'm going with the strongest and lightest variety no matter the extra money.

With the equipment out of the way you're ready to go. You begin by launching your board, stepping on board and heading for the surf. At first you'll feel exposed, heading into the break shoulders above the foam. But hang tight, as you nose through the soup the wash flowing around your ankles you'll find you can pick your way as well as any prone rider can.

When you're in the line-up you can count on more than a few stares. After all, when's the last time you saw someone standing 100 yards from shore? No matter, watch their expression when the first decent swell starts to form. While they pump like mad to catch their ride, you're picking up even more speed by paddling. As you drop in, the real fun begins. Using the paddle as a rudder you can spin and turn even better than most standard techniques, with the paddle giving you even more leverage over the wave.

Equally suited for small or big conditions, paddle surfing is a great compliment to traditional, and a heck of a way to mix it up. It does take a little getting used to, but once you've got the technique down I guarantee you'll be standing with the best of them in no time. If you're intrigued come on down to the shop and me or the boys will be happy to give you a demo.

When not re-inventing the proverbial surfing wheel, you'll find Stu Foley and the gang at Air and Speed Surf 668-0356, on Main Street.